Crónica de viaje: Moisés

Por Juan Ignacio Babino


Moisés, por J.I Babino. Bolivia 2011.

¿Hay lugares donde descanse la ciudad?¿Las ciudades, descansan?¿Esa mole enorme de concreto y techos rojizos que hacen perder la vista de manera vertical, que es La Paz, descansa en algún lado, en algún momento, en algún rincón de su urbana vastedad? La respuesta no está soplando en el aire, pero quizás algo de ello se encuentre en el Mercado de Brujería de La Paz, a metros del mercado Lanza.

Allí, al fondo de un pasillo de una de las tantas galerías que tienen su entrada casi bloqueada debido a los tejidos y aguayos y remeras bolsos mantas gorros bolsillos hojas de coca que hay allí; está Moisés. Sentado está Moisés. Sentado está Moisés casi contra una esquina de su pequeño local, detrás de un derruido escritorio de madera y tiene sobre las piernas una concertina. O mejor dicho, parte de una de las tantas concertinas que arregla. Moisés está sentado y es luthier. Y músico. “Pero no recibido, ah… Sólo autodidacta, porque allá en el pueblito donde nací, nadie…”

Nadie. Nadie había que enseñase, dijo Moisés, sentado así, como encojido, como abrazando la parte de la concertina que tenía encima. Moisés tiene la piel marrón oscura, el pelo negro y corto y dedos gordos y largos. Uñas largas también tiene Moisés y curtidas y ennegrecidas de tanto lijar y arreglar, con la sabiduría y paciencia de un pez viejo, concertinas y demás instrumentos. “A mí me gusta más el bandoneón, pero bueno, aquí en Bolivia no se toca el bandoneón, sólo la concertina… Una vez sola conocí a un viejito que…”

A un viejito que tocaba el bandoneón, dice Moisés, que lo invitó a tocar. Unos tangos dice que se tocaron. Moisés tiene, además y sobre todo, dientes enormes, apenas amarillos, como si fueran las teclas de marfil de un piano viejo. El local tiene muchos instrumentos colgados de las paredes, tiene instrumentos sobre el piso; por caso una concertina, por caso un bandoneón, por caso otra concertina, aunque mas vieja que aquella. “Son siete letras, viste en la música… Y todo lo que se puede hacer, ya… ¿No?” dice Moisés, mientras mueve sus enormes dedos con envidiable parsimonia sobre esa especie de rejilla de madera que va cada lado de la concertina. Las lija, les pasa la palma de la mano para limpiar, les echa encima un poco de La Gotita y vuelve a agarrar la lija. Las lija. Las acaricia. Sí, sobre todo, las acaricia.

Por momentos deja sus enormes manos quietas y habla. Y dice. Y lo hace siempre desde ese punto en el mundo mostrando sus dientes de marfil, como de piano viejo pero para nada desafinado. Y Moisés, sentado así con ese sucio y viejo delantal que le cubre desde el pecho hacia abajo, con esa concertina sobre sus muslos, con esa mirada que oculta ante cada encarada de la cámara, es un punto en el mundo, un punto de silencio, un manto mínimo de tresxcuatro donde la ciudad descansa. O eso parece.

(Un punto en La Paz, Bolivia, Sudamérica).

(de la edición Nº 18, abril 2013)

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