Foto el lugar perfecto para morir

El lugar perfecto para morir

Nuestro columnista Ariel Boffelli, propone compartir un desplazamiento vacacional a bordo del Tren Patagónico, para apuntar reflejos del sur de nuestra Argentina. A bordo que empieza el viaje. 

Ariel Boffelli*

La circunstancia de recorrer en tren la provincia de Río Negro, del mar a las montañas, significa una experiencia perturbadora para el alma, porque allí donde el desierto más cruel desaparece en el horizonte, al amanecer, con la llegada de cerros, valles y montañas que generan un espectáculo impecable, la visión del mundo le cambia hasta al más urbano.

Gracias a la elevada percepción que se puede adquirir en el trayecto, se palpan las historias más corrientes de diferencia de clases, donde la naturaleza juega un rol especial, como en toda la vida por esos lugares.

Desde la partida en Viedma, una ciudad parca, calurosa, lejos de parecer una interesante capital provincial, el Tren Patagónico es un ejemplo de la situación que viven los rionegrinos, donde la ceniza volcánica ha provocado un desastre de proporciones bíblicas para los ganaderos de la región, sumado al cimbronazo que provocó la muerte de su ex Gobernador, Carlos Soria.

En este momento social y político, se viajaba (el tren fue suspendido por un descarrilamiento a fines de Enero hasta Marzo) en un servicio programado para el turismo, que funciona bajo el ala estatal, dejando un abanico interminable de críticas por los mismos usuarios y que marchaba, según un funcionario nacional, a “fuerza de alambre, Fastix y Poxipol”.

La diferencia que realizan las personas que trabajan en la formación, sobre todo con sus co-provincianos, genera el rechazo de los que perciben una suerte de apartheid bizarro. El agobiante calor provocado por las ventanas selladas y las malas caras cuando circulan por el vagón comedor, son algunos rasgos de cuáles son los beneficiaros del servicio.

A pesar de esto, que es algo inevitable de asimilar, los paisajes que se observan dejarían a Jack London boquiabierto. Guanacos, maras y lagartijas forman parte de la fauna que va cambiando cuando los bosques de pinos esparcidos entre los cerros y los pequeños arroyos que desembocan en los lagos cubren la superficie rocosa.

Allí, donde la pre Cordillera de Los Andes reina, el agua forma un retrato perfecto, que deja al visitante minimizado por la belleza que lo rodea. Lo mejor de este trayecto es observar las pequeñas casas en medio de la nada, sin rastros de vida, donde la soledad parece ser la única compañera y el hombre otorga rasgos de existencia por algunos senderos tapados por la ceniza.

La propia Bariloche, final del recorrido y ciudad que maravilla a los miles de turistas extranjeros que circulan, recibe a todos con una nube espesa, opacando al Nahuel Huapi. Muy cerca ahí, a 200 kilómetros, luego de recorrer una ruta que serpentea entre montañas, El Bolsón, un paraíso lisérgico con la energía más fuerte que pueda existir, atrae a todos los que buscan una escapatoria de la ciudad.

Existe algo que entre los transeúntes llaman el “espíritu del lugar”, donde las cosas suceden a cuatro velocidades menos de las que el resto de los argentinos están acostumbrados, por eso, cuando las personas igualan el andar de ellos, comienzan a adaptarse al ritmo de una comunidad que vive el turismo al máximo, pero a su estilo.

La plaza central es la reunión de mochileros que circulan constantemente, donde se arrojan en el pasto a fumar marihuana y a escuchar los músicos que tocan para los renovados seguidores que cambian día a día, que viajan de un lugar a otro para asimilar el poder de la naturaleza, que es la única dueña de la preciosa Comarca Andina, que tiene como joya al Lago Puelo.

Los fines de semana una feria de artesanos reúne desde productores de frambuesas a dealers ambiciosos, con un negocio redondo, donde unos 250 pesos pueden hacer maravillas. Por eso, para cualquiera que haya recorrido la ruta 40 no puede negar que los puros y frescos vientos de las montañas, que

pasan con fuerza en los arroyos de deshielo, le cambian a cualquiera la perspectiva de la vida y, sobre todo, le dejan una experiencia única y necesariamente repetible.

*Periodista deportivo de Caseros (pcia. de Entre Ríos), estudiante de la carrera de Periodismo y Comunicación Social de la UNLP y redactor del sitio LetraP de la ciudad de La Plata.

(de la edición Nº 4, febrero 2012)

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