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Pensado y pasado en el pasado

Visitar el almacén de ramos generales de Mongiardini en Barrientos, es volver. Un paseo por su historia, las anécdotas del tiempo y el recuerdo capaz de hacer imaginar el desarrollo de un país en la lejanía de estas pampas. Texto: Félix Mansilla. Fotos: Nico B Mansilla.

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El almacén fue construido en 1945.

La estampa de una construcción del año ’45, se presenta detrás de muchos árboles de paraíso, tupidos, en clara distinción con el rojo de miles de ladrillos amurados al tiempo. El pasto cortado es un verde más verde a la sombra. Desplazados de forma ordenada, cinco troncos con respaldo hacen centro en una mesa de madera gastada por el agua del cielo.

La postal es la misma desde hace más de cincuenta años, cuando Hugo Mongiardini —más conocido como Purrete acá y en todas partes— junto a su padre y su hermano Pocho, compraron el almacén a la familia Maldonado de La Paz Grande, el 7 de noviembre del año 1956. El paraje Barrientos, data de los comienzos de siglo. Desde Salvador María, un camino de tierra de 15 km, desemboca en el paraje donde también se encuentra el Club Alumni. En años dorados de la Argentina, el boliche de Purrete era el centro. Cientos de peones de estancia y empleados de tambos, se alojaban en estas pampas, trabajadores que una vez al mes pasaban a comprar mucho y de todo. Familias enteras encontraban en el lugar, aquello que las quintas domésticas no producían.

Cientos de productos que encontramos hoy en cualquier supermercado, Purrete los tiene, pero con los precios marcados con lapicera Bic azul. El aroma del almacén es una mezcla de quesos frescos, verduras, tabaco y sogas sobadas en grasa buena. Un martes de otoño antes de las cinco de la tarde, Purrete —eminencia del paraje Barrientos— cuenta que muchas veces se acercaron periodistas de medios nacionales para retratar esta especie de museo de campo de los que ya no quedan, o son pocos.

Mates que van y enseguida cuenta. “Un día conversando con Jorge Rossini (conocido camionero de Salvador María) me contó que no podía cobrar una cuenta de muchos materiales, acá en la zona. Yo jodiendo le dije: ‘Dejate de joder, el día que cobres esa cuenta tenés que pagar un asado, algo grande’. Pasó un año, dos años. Un día, antes de irme a la cancha de Boca en un partido contra San Lorenzo, vino.

De esto hará unos tres años. Lindo día nos tocó, fuimos en una combi que salió de Lobos, todo muy lindo. Todavía no sé si había cobrado esa cuenta. Al tiempo lo encontré y me dijo que iba a pagar el asado. Fue justo cuando vino un periodista de Buenos Aires. Se acercó a donde estábamos comiendo el asado. Vio todo, se sorprendió el tipo. Le dije ‘señor quedesé’. ‘No, le agradezco, porque tengo que seguir visitando otros almacenes de la zona’, me dijo. Después sacó todo en la revista: que había un almacén donde los sábados hacían grandes asados. Era el que pagó Rossini”. Purrete se ríe y nos invita a pasar.

Entramos al almacén por una puerta de madera gastada, doble hoja, que alguna vez tuvo un bordó de época. Prende cuatro tubos fluorescentes que no se notan en el espacio porque todavía entra un poco de sol por otra de las puertas. Una mesa de pool vieja está nivelada con maderas y cartones de cajas de mercadería en sus cuatro patas. Tiene los bordes rajados, se nota el marrón de puchos descansados que lo fueron quemando de a poco. Observo lo inmenso y recuerdo la anécdota del Vasco Iraizoz, un amigo que supo ver llegar las noches en invierno jugando en esa mesa, con algún trago al paso. Lo divertido de todo —contaba el Vasco— es que Purrete a las ocho y media de la noche pasaba por el pool, embocaba la negra con la mano, les devolvía la moneda de un peso y decía que quería cerrar. En señal de bronca del momento, el Vasco señalaba que no se podían calentar porque el tipo siempre reembolsaba el monto de la partida, pero…nunca había un ganador.

Purrete tenía 19 años cuando comenzó a ser el vendedor de la zona. “Lo compramos con todo puesto” tira y como que el recuerdo se pone en la mirada de los tirantes a tres metros del piso. Dice ronco, deseando, “ojalá pudiéramos volver la cinta para atrás. La corremos como queremos”, cierra y espera más preguntas con los lentes a la mitad de la nariz.

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Purrete, atiende “el boliche” desde el 7 de noviembre de 1956.

Tiene memoria de elefante, cuenta con detalles, fechas, parece que viéramos eso que le pasaba todos los días allá a los lejos. “Empezamos a trabajar todos en lo mismo. Al tiempo, me tocó hacer el servicio militar en Junín de Los Andes. Fue lindo para conocer y andar. Volví dos veces. Era joven. Fueron once meses hasta quedar de baja. Había en esa época como cien clientes fijos. ¿Ahora?, ¿firme?, habrá diez o quince clientes, después son todos al paso. La cosa cambió”. Abre las manos como alas, mira de nuevo para arriba, se acomoda los lentes y narra. “Esto está hecho en 1945. Trabajó el finado Ángel Malvestiti (albañil), Begui Orsi hizo mi casa, que está atrás del almacén. En 1961, hicimos un galpón —contiguo al local— cuando vine del servicio militar. Fui peón del albañil, trabajamos veinte días. Dos meses estuve acá”. Le pregunto si el Ejército lo vino a buscar. Deja que el flash de la cámara se apague y levanta la voz apenas. “No, no, nooo”, dice. “Me mandaron una carta para que me presente con pelo corto, camiseta y ropa de abrigo. Para que me pueda salvar, me dijeron: ‘usted diga que estuvo indispuesto’. Por suerte zafé”.

Es difícil volver a un tiempo no vivido. La memoria en fotos toma movimiento al mirar los estantes en lo alto, un poco vacíos. El almacén creció con los años. Purrete destaca cada paso. “En 1960 empezamos a agregar rollos de alambre Acindar, baterías Champion. Venían muchos viajantes. De la mañana a las doce atendía cinco viajantes. Se vendía a patadas. Hasta el sesenta y pico anduvo bien”, enuncia sin rencor. “En el ‘70 compré el Chevrolet 400 que lo tengo todavía hoy. Pago al contado. Había guita. Venía el viajante Antonio Bernardi de Lavallol. Le compraba hasta cincuenta bolsas de azúcar al contado. Eran viajantes, pero amigos de la casa. Se compraba a carta abierta”.

Las historias se renuevan. Todo almacenado en la cabeza. Hacia mediados de siglo, el paraje era un espacio central en la vida de campo. Al abrir, vendía cartones de cigarros, velas, una tenaza, 5 kg de maíz, papas, nafta o queso de rallar. En sus anécdotas, todo se dibuja. “Una vez vino un viajante de Swift, Macho Negri, con la novedad: se presentó con la boleta de Swift. Cincuenta botellas de aceite de litro y medio. Me mandó queso, unos quesos lindísimos, el cajón venía con grasa en la caja. Con cajas de jabón, todo de acá, Industria Nacional”, amplía sobre aquellas décadas.

Los viajantes, una comunidad ardua del Conurbano y Capital, se pasaban el dato. A dos horas del centro, un almacén de ramos generales compraba mucho, todo cash. “Una vez llegó un tal García, un viajante. Vino una tarde que estábamos limpiando el galpón con Pocho. Llegó tres y media, antes de que abriéramos a la tarde”, dibuja Purrete. “Cae con el portafolio, andaba en un Citroën el tipo. Dice, «bueno, hoy les vengo a vender». Le decimos: «no le vamos a poder comprar». Había jabón Angelito, cajas de velas, de todo, jabón Campana, muchos packs de panes de jabón en depósito. «No podemos comprar», repetimos. Nos dice: «No, no. Vamos a conversar un rato, van a ver que me van a comprar», dijo confiado el tipo. «Hoy ando con las bonificaciones, y en todas conviene comprar. Vamos a conversar un rato». Había bajado las listas: «Acá, a ver… once cajas de jabón Campana que vienen con dos de bonificación. Este hay que agarrarlo. Jabón en polvo, cinco o seis cajas, hay una sin paga. Con la factura hacemos lo siguiente: la cobramos en dos viajes. A los cuarenta y cinco días me pagan la mitad y a los sesenta la otra mitad». Que jabón, que detergente Camello en botella de litro (25/30 cajas), anotó todo y nos dijo: «vieron que me iban a comprar. En pocos días, llega un camión con cinco mil kilos. Les va a traer de todo». Así fue nomás”.

“Uno compraba y se vendía. Siempre al contado o con facilidades, pero la plata estaba. Ellos (los viajantes) hacían grandes negocios porque vendían en grande”. Indagamos si en el boliche también la cantina ya era un lugar de encuentro por las tardes/noches. Purrete hace una risa pícara, apoya una mano en el mostrador y con la otra señala una góndola donde se ven botellas de caña y algunas de ginebra. Vuelve a mirar el grabador.

“Antes se tomaba mucha bebida, mucha caña de durazno. Entonces, viene un viajante, uno que le había comprado tiempo antes como sesenta cajones de doce de caña. Me dijo que lo había salvado, que se había comprado un auto gracias a esa compra. Hoy, sesenta cajones de caña no lo vendés ni en diez años. “Era todo distinto, uno sabía que a las cuentas las iba a cobrar. Había confianza. En esos años vendíamos de todo. Vendíamos yerba de La hoja, Flor de Liz. Menos de 20/25 cajas no bajaban. Cada vez que venían los viajantes, pagábamos al contado. Había muchos clientes locales, dos fábricas de leche, una de Mateo Robaldi: dieciocho mil litros de leche por día producía. Muchos tamberos. Eso era el fuerte: todas las familias compraban acá”.

Las pruebas en sus relatos son firmes, tienen contundencia. Muchos de los viejos de hoy le recriminan a la época que vivimos que se perdió la confianza. Purrete vuelve al pasado. “Había cuenta, había más delicadeza. Era una rueda que andaba. Ahora no hay esa confianza”. Risa corta. “Le fiaba a un croto que vivía debajo de un puente. Cada vez que iba a cobrar la pensión pasaba y me pedía que le haga las cuentas que a la vuelta pasaba a pagar”.

Casi como al pasar Juan Torres, yerno de Purrete, llega a la mitad de la conversación. Sigue el andar de los mates, consulta sobre el funcionamiento del trípode de la cámara de Nico B, escucha las respuestas y despacio dice que le preguntemos sobre cuando volcó un carro tirado a caballos en medio de una inundación. Al rato, después de unas risas con lágrimas sin quejas, Purrete finaliza: “Uno de los caballos se fue a la cuneta. Estaba la zona inundada, no se podía pasar por ningún lado. Volcamos, terminamos todos embarrados y las galletas, unas galletas bien grandotas, corrían carreras entre el agua y el barro”.

Una hora después de la primera anécdota, se viene el final de la charla, sólo quedan anotar un par de datos que ilustran. En ese mientras tantos, el gordo Torres grita desde el fondo de la cantina. Se ríe y saca de una heladera marrón de cuatro puertas una botella de ginebra Bols con la etiqueta viejísima. Sirve una medida.

—No se pueden ir sin probar esta reliquia ¿Sabés los años que tiene esta botella?
—Pero, Juan, son las seis y media de la tarde —avisamos.
—No importa, no importa…

Los tres tragos pasaron ardientes por una de las gargantas, calientes, en el cuerpo. Juan volvió a soltar una carcajada y guardó el tesoro etílico. Salimos del boliche. Purrete se asomó a la puerta y se despidió saludando con las manos como Forrest Gump. La noche empezó a asomar y la estampa Barrientos quedó igual.

(Nota de tapa de la edición Nº 19, mayo 2013)

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